Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan

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GENERAL VIEW OF PALENQUE

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INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL

IN

CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS,

AND YUCATAN.

Past THE LATE
JOHN LLOYD STEPHENS.

With numerous Engravings.

REVISED FROM THE LATEST AMERICAN EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS,
BY FREDERICK CATHERWOOD.

LONDON:
ARTHUR HALL, VIRTUE & CO
23 PATERNOSTER ROW
1854.

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LONDON:
R. CLAY, PRINTER, Breadstuff STREET Loma.

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PREFACE.

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In preparing the nowadays Work for publication in a cheap form, and which, although information technology has been favourably received past the British Public, has never before been printed in England, I take not omitted any of the Illustrations which appear in the American Edition, and have given some boosted ones, which are now published for the showtime fourth dimension.

The Illustrations are all re-engraved from the Original Drawings and Sketches, and the greatest attention has been paid to make them accurate. The reader volition thus have the unabridged discoveries and antique researches as at first presented, and the material wherewith to class a correct judgment of their graphic symbol and importance.

I have found it necessary to curtail a portion of the narrative written by Mr. Stephens, with a view of condensing the whole into a single volume; but those parts merely are omitted which ​ appeared to me of less interest, as not being connected with the original, and, I may say, simply object of our journey, an Exploration of the Ruined Cities of Central America, the appointment of Mr. Stephens equally Special Confidential Agent from the The states to Central America, having taken place but a very short fourth dimension previous to our leaving, and after all our arrangements were completed.

Should this book be favourably received, information technology will be followed past a continuation of our travels in Yucatan in the years 1841, 1842.

F. Catherwood.

50ondon, Feb. 1854. ​

PORTRAIT OF MR. STEPHENS.

(From a Daguerrotype.)

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BIOGRAPHICAL Discover.

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A short biographical detect of my tardily fellow-traveller may not be uninteresting to the readers of the nowadays volume. Mr. John Lloyd Stephens, the second son of Mr. Benjamin Stephens, was born at Shrewsbury in the State of New Bailiwick of jersey, in the U.s.a. of America, in the year 1805. Until the historic period of xiii, Mr. Stephens studied at the school of Mr. Nelson, who, although bullheaded, is described as an admirable reader of the classics. For 4 years Mr. Stephens pursued his studies at Columbia Higher, New York, afterwards entered a police schoolhouse, and when of age was admitted to the practice of the legal profession.

In the year 1834, the country of Mr. Stephens'south wellness rendering information technology necessary for him to travel away, he visited many of the countries of Europe, extending his tour to Arab republic of egypt and Syria. On his return to New York, he published Incidents of Trayel in Egypt, Arabia, Petræs, and the Holy Land," followed very soon by "Incidents of Travel in Greece, Turkey, Russian federation, and Poland."

These works were received with peachy favour, and were very extensively read in the Usa; and in this country accept been several times reprinted, establishing Mr. Stephens's reputation equally an excellent and agreeable author of Travel and Narrative.

In 1839 Mr. Stephens and myself made arrangements for a tour in Central America, with a view to the examination of the remains of ancient art said to exist in the dense forests of those tropical regions.

Our preparations were scarcely completed, when Mr. Leggett, who was on the point of setting out as U.s.a. Minister for that land, died very all of a sudden, and upon application for information technology, Mr. Stephens immediately received the appointment. We had some misgivings lest it should interfere with our antiquarian pursuits, but Mr. Stephens contrived, equally the reader will find, to combine the hunt after a Government with a successful hunt for ruined cities. Our journeying occupied about 7 or eight months of the years 1839 and 1840. ​ The results of our researches were published in 1841. In the autumn of that yr, we resumed our travels, and explored the Peninsula of Yucatan, and in 1843 a second work was brought out. Subsequently our last visit to Yucatan, we were urged to pursue the researches then successfully carried on in Central America by a journey to Peru, and Mr. Prescott, the beauteous historian of that country, was of opinion that much useful information would thereby have been elicited. Mr. Stephens was, however, disinclined to undertake then distant an trek, and was confirmed in this resolve by my being obliged to absent myself for several years on a professional engagement in the W Indies; he therefore remained in New York, and undertook the formation of the first American Ocean Steam Navigation Visitor, which in the end has proved highly successful. He side by side visited the Isthmus of Panama, with the view of forming a Railway across the narrow merely difficult neck of land that separates the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

A Company was formed, of which he subsequently became the President, and a concession for the line was obtained from the Government of New Grenada. The necessary surveys were made, and the works began in 1850.^[one] Having completed my appointment in the West Indies, I rejoined Mr. Stephens to assist in his swell enterprise of spanning the Isthmus with a road of iron, and took charge of the works while he fabricated a second journey to Santa Fé de Bogotá, the capital of New Grenada. Nosotros expected to meet in a few months, but Mr. Stephens'due south health, already much shattered by exposure in tropical regions, and mine even so more so by a seven months' residence in one of the most unhealthy climates in the world, separated united states of america for almost 2 years; Mr. Stephens going to New York to recruit his strength, and I to California for the same object. Afterwards Mr. Stephens returned to the Isthmus, and by long and incautious exposure in that deadly climate in forwarding the interests of the Railway Company, brought on a disease which terminated fatally in the autumn of 1852.

As his fellow-traveller and intimate friend, I may be permitted to bear testimony to his kindly disposition, and the many first-class qualities of caput and heart which endeared him to a large circumvolve of friends and connexions.

F. Catherwood.

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CONTENTS

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PAGE

Deviation—The Voyage—Arrival at Balize—Mixing of Colours—Authorities Business firm—Colonel M'Donald—Origin of Baliza—Negro Schools—Scene in a Courtroom-Room—Police without Lawyers—The Billet—Excursion in a Pit-Pan—A Beginning of Honours—Honours accumulating—Departure from Balize—Sweets of Function

1

Anybody for himself—Travellers' Tricks—Puenta Gorda—A Visit to the Carib Indians—A Carib Crone—A Baptism—Rio Dolce—Cute Scenery—Yzabal—Reception of the Padre—A Barber in Office—A Band of "Invincibles"—Parties in Cardinal America—A Compatriot—A Grave in a Foreign Country—Preparations for the Passage of "the Mountain"—A Road not Macadamized—Perils by the Manner—A well-spiced Dejeuner—The Mountain Passed

xi

A Canonigo—How to roast a Fowl—Extempore Shoemaking—Motagua River—Beautiful Scene—Crossing the River—The Luxury of Water—Primitive Costumes—How to make Tortillas—Plush Timber—Gualan—Oppressive Heat—Stupor of an Earthquake—A Stroll through the Town—A troublesome Muleteer—A Lawsuit—Important Negotiations—A Modernistic Bona Dea—How to gain a Husband—A Kingdom of Flora—Zacapa—Making gratuitous with a Host

28

Purchasing a Bridle—A School and its Regulations—Chat with an Indian—Chiquimula—A Church in Ruins—A Veteran of the French Empire—St. Stephanos—A Land of Mountains—An Matter with a Muleteer—A deserted Hamlet—A rude Assault—Arrest—Imprisonment Release

forty ​

PAGE

An Indian Funeral—Copan River—Woman's Kindness—Hacienda of San Antonio—Foreign Community—A Mountain of Aloes—The State of Republic of honduras—Hamlet of Copan—An ungracious Host—Wall of Copan—History of Copan—First View of the Ruins—Vain Speculations—Applications for Medicine—Search for an Abode—A ill Woman—Plagues of a Muleteer—An unpleasant Situation—A Thunder-storm—Thoughts of buying Copan.

l

How to begin—Commencement of Explorations—Interest created past these Ruins—Visit from the Alcalde—Vexatious Suspicions—A welcome Visitor—Alphabetic character from General Cascara—Ownership a Urban center—Visit from Don Gregorio'due south Family—Distribution of Medicines.

70

Survey of the Ruins—Account of them past Huarres and by Colonel Galindo—Their Situation—Their Extent—Plan of Survey—Pyramidal Structures—Rows of Expiry'south Heads—Remarkable Portrait—"Idols"—Graphic symbol of the Engravings—Ranges of Terraces—A Portrait—Courtyards—Curious Altar—Tablets of Hieroglyphics—Gigantic Headstone Quarries—More Applicants for Medicine—"Idols" and Altars—Buried Epitome—Material of the Statues—Idols originally painted—Circular Altar—Antiquity of Copan.

79

Separation—An Adventure—Copan River—Don Clementino—A Wedding—A Supper—A Wedding ceremony Ball—Buying a Mule—The Sierra— View from the top—Esquipulas—The Cura—Hospitable Reception—Church building of Esquipulas—Responsibility of the Cura—Mountain of Quezaltapeque—An narrow Escape—San Jacinto—Reception by the Padre—A Village Fête—An Ambuscade—Motagua River—Village of Santa Rosalia—A Expiry Scene.

98

Chimalapa—The Cabildo—A Scene of Revelry—Guastatoya—A Hunt for Robbers—Approach to Guatimala—Beautiful Scenery—Volcanoes of Agua and Fuego—Get-go View of the Metropolis—Entry into the City—First Impressions—The Diplomatic Residence—Parties in Fundamental America—Murder of Vice-President Flores—Political Land of Guatimala—An embarrassing State of affairs—The Constituent Assembly—Armed forces Police.

111

Hacienda of Naranjo—Lazoing— Diplomatic Correspondence—Formulas—Féte of La Concepcion—Taking the Black Veil—A Countrywoman—Renouncing the World—Fireworks, etc.—Procession in Laurels of the Virgin—Some other Exhibition of Fireworks—A fiery Bull—Insolent Soldiery

125

The Provisor—News of the Day, how published in Guatimala—Visit to the Convent of La Concepcion—The Farewell of the Nun—Carrera—Sketch of his Life— The Cholera— Insurrections—Carrera heads the Insurgents—His Appearances in Guatimala—Capture of the City—Carrera triumphant—Arrival of Morazan—Hostilities—Pursuit of Carrera—His Defeat—He is again uppermost—Interview with Carrera—His Character.

134

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Party to Mixco—A Scene of pleasance—Procession in Accolade fo the Patron Saint of Mixco—Fireworks—A Bombardment—Smoking Cigars—A Night-Brawl—Suffering and Sorrow—A Cockfight—A Walk in the Suburbs—Sunday Entertainment—Return to the City.153

Circuit to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean— San Lucas—Mount Scenery—El Rio Pensativo—La Antigua— Account of its Destruction—An Octogenarian—The Cathedral— San Juan Obispo—Santa Maria—Volcano de Agua—Ascent of the Mountain—The Crater—A lofty Meeting-place—The Descent—Return to La Antigua—Tillage of Cochineal—Classic Ground—Ciudad Vieja—Its Foundation—Visit from Indians—Difference from Ciudad Vieja—First Sight of the Pacific—Alotenango—Volcan de Fuego—Escuintla—Sunset Scene—Masagua—Port of Istapa—Arrival at the Pacific.161

The Return—Hunt for a Mule—Overo—Masagua—Escuintla—Falls of San Pedro Martyr—Michatoyal River—Hamlet of San Pedro—A Major-Domo—San Cristoval—Amatitan—A roving American—Entry into Guatimala—Letter of the alphabet from Mr. Catherwood—Christmas Eve —Arrival of Mr. Catherwood—Plaza de Toros—A Bullfight—The Theatre—Official Business organization—The Aristocracy of Guatimala—Country of the country—New year's day's Day—Ferocity of Political party.178

Hunt for a Government—Diplomatic Difficulties—Departure from Guatimala—Lake of Amatitan—Attack of Fever and Ague—Overo—Istapa—A French Merchant Transport—Port of Acajutla—Disease—Zonzonate—The Government found—Visit to the Volcano of Izalco—Course of the Eruptions—Descent from the Volcano189

Sickness and Mutiny—Illness of Captain Jay— Critical Situation—Crude Nursing— Dolphins—Succession of Volcanoes—Gulf of Nicoya—Harbour of Caldera—Another Patient— Hacienda of San Felipe—Mount of Aguacate—"Zillenthal Patent Self-Acting Cold Amalganation Machine"—Gold Mines—View from the Mountain-top 199

La Garita—Alajuela—A friendly People—Heredia—Rio Segundo—Coffee Plantations of San Jose—The Sacrament for the Dying—A happy Meeting—Travelling Embarrassments— Quarters in a Convent—Señor Carillo, Chief of State—Vicissitudes of Fortune—Visit to Cartago—Tres Rios—An unexpected Meeting—Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago—The Crater—View of the two Seas—Descent—Stroll through Cartago—A Burial— Another Attack of Fever and Ague—A Vagabond—Tillage of Coffee 208

Difference for Guatimala—Esparza—Town of Republic of costa rica—The Barranca—Wild Scenery—Hacienda of Aranjuez—River Lagartos—Cerros of Collito—Herds of Deer—Santa Rosa—Don Juan José Bonilla—An Earthquake—A Cattle Farm—Bagases—Guanacaste—An agreeable Welcome—Belle of Guanacaste—Pleasant Lodgings—Cordilleras—Volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi—Hacienda of San Teresa—Sunset View—The Pacific again.220

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Visit to the Volcano of Masaya—Village of Masaya—Lake of Masaya—Nindiri—Ascension of the Volcano—Account of information technology—The Crater—Descent into information technology—Volcano of Nindiri—Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest—Render to Masaya—Another Countryman—Managua—Lake of Managua—Angling—Beautiful Scenery—Mateares—Questa del Relox—Nagarotis—Crosses—A Gamekeeper—Pueblo Nuevo.231

Beantiftul Obviously—Leon—Stroll through the Town—Baneful Effects of Party Spirit—Scenes of horror—Unpleasant Intelligence—Journeying continued—A fastidious Beggar—Chinandega—Gulf of Conchagua—Visit to Realejo—Cotton Manufactory—Harbour of Realejo—El Viejo—Port of Naguiscolo—Importance of a Passport—Embarking Mules—A Bungo—Volcano of Coseguina—Eruption of 1835—La Spousal relationship.239

Journeying to San Salvador—A new Companion—San Alejo—War Alarms—State of San Salvador—River Lempa—San Vicente—Volcano of San Vicente—Thermal Springs—Cojutepeque—Arrival at San Salvador—Prejudice against Foreigners—Contributions—Printing-Gangs—Vice-President Vigil—Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente—Rumours of a March upon San Salvador—Departure from San Salvador—La Barranca de Guaramal—Volcano of Izalco—Depredations of Rascon—Zonzonate—News from Guatimala—Journey connected—Aguisalco—Apeneca—Mountain of Aguachapa—Subterranean Fires—Aguachapa—Defeat of Morazan—Confusion and Terror.249

Approach of Carrera's Forces—Terror of the Inhabitants—Their Flight—Surrender of the Town—Ferocity of the Soldiery—A Bulletin—Diplomacy—A Passport—A Breakfast—An Alarm—The Widow Padilla—An Attack—Defeat of Carrera's Forces—The Town taken by General Morazán—His Entry—The Widow'south Son—Visit to General Morazán—His Advent, Grapheme, etc.—Plans deranged.263

Visit from General Morazan—End of his Career—Procuring a Guide—Departure for Guatimala—Fearfulness of the People—The Rio Paz—Hacienda of Pamita—A fortunate Escape- Hacienda of San José—An awkward Predicament—A kind Host—Rancho of Hoctilla—Oratorio and Leon—Rio de los Esclavos—The Village—Approach to Guatimala—Arrival at Guatimala—A Sketch of the Wars—Defeat of Morazan—Scene of Massacre.275

Ruins of Quirigua—Visit to them—Los Amates—Pyramidal Structure—A colossal Head—An Chantry—A Collection of Monuments—Statues—Character of the Ruins—A lost City—Purchasing a ruined City.291

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PAGE

Reception at the Government House—The Captain in Trouble—A Change of Character—Arrangements for Journey to Palenque—Arrest of the Captain—His Release—Dangers in Prospect—Fearful State of the Country—Concluding Interview with Carrera—Departure from Guatimala—A Don Quixote—Ciudad Vieja—Plain of El Vieja—Volcanoes, Plains, and Villages—San Andres Isapa—Dangerous Road—A Molino—Journeying continued—Barrancas—Tecpan Guatimala—A noble Church—A sacred Stone—The ancient City—Description of the Ruins—A Molino—Some other Convulsion—Patzum— A Ravine—Fortifications—Los Altos—Godines—Losing a good Friend—Magnificent Scenery—San Antonio—Lake of Atitan.298

Lake of Atitan—Conjectures as to its Origin, &c.—A Sail on the Lake—A dangerous Situation—A lofty Mountain Range—Ascension of the Mountains—Commanding View—Beautiful Patently— An elevated Village—Ride along the Lake—Solola—Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiché—Scenery on the Route—Barrancas—San Thomas—Whipping Posts—Plain of Quiché—The Village—Ruins of Quiché—Its History—Desolate Scene—A facetious Cura—Description of the Ruins— Plan—The Royal Palace—The Place of Cede—An Image—Two Heads, &c.—Destruction of the Palace recent— An Arch.319

Interior of a Convent—Royal Bird of Quiché—Indian Languages—The Lord'southward Prayer in the Quiché Linguistic communication—Numerals in the same—Church of Quiché—Indian Superstitions— Another lost City—Tierra de Guerra—The Aborigines—Their Conversion to Christianity—They were never conquered—A living Metropolis—Indian Tradition respecting this Metropolis—Probably has never been visited by the Whites—Presents a noble Field for hereafter Enterprise—Departure—San Pedro—Virtue of a Passport—A difficult Ascension—Mount Scenery—Totonicapan—An first-class Dinner—A State of Aloes—"River of Blood"—Arrival at Quezaltenango. 339

Quezaltenango—Business relationship of information technology—Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity—Appearance of the City—The Convent—Insurrection—Carrera'south March from Quezaltenango—His Treatment of the Inhabitants—Preparations for Holy Week—The Church—A Procession—Good Friday—Commemoration of the Resurrection—Opening Ceremony—The Crucifixion—A Sermon—Descent from the Cross—Grand Procession—Church building of Calvario—The instance of the Cura—Warm Springs of Almolonga. 348

Journey connected—A Mountain Plain—Lost Guides—A trying Moment—Aguas Callentes—A magnificent View—Gold Ore—San Sebastiano—Gueguetenango—Sierra Madre—A huge Skeleton—The Ruins—Pyramidal Structures—A Vault—Mounds—A welcome Addition—Interior of a Mound—Vases— Ascent of the Sierra Madre—Buena Vista—The Descent—Todos Santos—San Martin—San Andres Petapan—A Forest on Fire—Suffering of the Mules from Swarms of Flies—San Antonio Guista. 360

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Folio

Comfortable Lodging—Journey continued—Stony road—Beautiful River—Interruption Bridge—The Dolores—Rio Lagertero—Enthusiasm brought down—Another Bridge—Entry into Mexico—A Bath—A lonely Church building—A Scene of Barrenness—Zapoaluta—Comitan—Some other Countryman—Mere Perplexities—Official Courtesy—Trade of Comitan—Smuggling—Scarcity of Lather.373

Parting—Sotana—A Millionaire—Ocosingo—Ruins—Commencement of the Rainy Flavor—A Female Guide—Inflow at the Ruins—Stone Figures—Pyramidal Structures—An Arch—A Stucco Ornament—A WoodenLintel—A curious Cavern—Buildings, &c.—A Causeway—More Ruins—Journey to Palenque—Rio Grande—Cascades— Succession of Villages—A Bedlamite-The Yahalon—Tumbala—A wild Place—A Scene of grandeur and sublimity—Indian Carriers—A steep Mountain—San Pedro382

A wild Country—Ascent of a Mountain—Ride in a Silla—A precarious Situation—The Descent-Rancho of Nopa—Attacks of Mosquitoes—Arroyo to Palenque—Pasture Grounds—Village of Palenque—A crusty Official—A courteous Reception—Scarcity of Provisions—Sunday—Cholera—The Conversion, Apostasy, and Recovery of the Indians—River Chacamal—The Caribs—Ruins of Palenque.404

Preparations for visiting the Ruins—A Turn out—Departure—The Road—Rivers Micel and Otula—Arrival at the Ruins—The Palace—A Feu-de-jois—Quarters in the Palace— inscriptions past onetime Visitors—The Fate of Beanham—Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque—Visit of Del Rio—Expedition of Dupaix—Drawings of the nowadays Piece of work—Offset Dinner at the Ruins—Mammoth Fireflies—Sleeping Apartments—Extent of the Ruins—Obstacles to Exploration—Suffering from Mosquitoes. 404

Precautions against the Attacks of Mosquitoes—Mode of life at Palenque—Clarification of the Palace—Piers—Hieroglyphics—Figures—Doorways—Corridors—Courtyards—A wooden Relic—Stone Steps—Towers—Tablets—Stucco Ornaments, &c. &c.—The Royal Chapel—Explorations—An Alarm—Insects—Effect of Insect Stings—Return to the Village of Palenque.417

A Voice from the Ruins—Buying Bread—Inflow of Padres—Cura of Palenque—Card Playing—Lord's day—Mass—A Dinner Party—Mementoes of Heme—Dinner Community—Return to the Ruins—A marked Change—Terrific Thunder—A Whirlwind—A Scene of the sublime and terrible.438

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Plan of the Ruins—Pyramidal Construction—A Building—Stucco Ornaments—Human being Figures—Tablets—Remarkable Hieroglyphs—Range of Pillars—Stone Terrace—Another Building—A big Tablet—A Cross—Conjectures in regard to this Cross—Beautiful Sculpture—A Platform—Curious Devices—A Statue—Another Pyramidal Structure surmounted past a Building—Corridors—A curious Bas-relief—Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas-relief—Tablets and Figures—The Oratorio—More Pyramidal Structures and Buildings—Extent of the Ruins—These Ruins the Remains of a polished and peculiar People—Antiquity of Palenque.447

Departure from the Ruins—Bad Road—An Accident—Arrival at the Village—A Funeral Procession—Negotiations for purchasing Palenque—Making Casts—Final Departure from Palenque—Cute Plain—Hanging Birds'-nests—A Sitio—Adventure with a monstrous Ape—Hospitality of Padres—Las Playas—A Storm—Mosquitoes—A youthful Merchant—Alligators—Another Funeral—Disgusting Ceremonials. 475

Embarkation—An inundated Plainly—Rio Chico—The Usumasinta—Rio Palisada—Yucatan—More than Revolutions—Vespers—Embarkation for the Laguna—Shooting Alligators—Tremendous Storm—Boca Chico—Lake of Terminos—A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest—Inflow at the Laguna…486

Laguna—Journey to Merida—Sisal—A new Mode of Conveyance—Hamlet of Hunucama—Arrival at Merida—Attribute of the Metropolis—Féte of Corpus Domini—The Cathedral—The Procession—Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian Women—Palace of the Bishop—The Theatre—Journey to Uxmal—Hacienda of Vayalquex—Value of H2o—Condition of the Indians in Yucatan—A peculiar kind of Omnibus—Hacienda of Mucuyché—A beautiful Grotto.497

Journey resumed—Arrival at Uxmal—Hacienda of Uxmal—Major-Domos—Adventures of a young Spaniard—Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal—Commencement Sight of the Ruins—Character of the Indians—Details of Hacienda Livt—A frail Instance—Disease of Mr. Catherwood—Breaking up.509

Ruins of Uxmal—A lofty Edifice—Magnificent View from Its Doorway—Peculiar sculptured Ornaments—Some other Building, called past the Indians the House of the Dwarf—An Indian Legend—The Firm of the Nuns—The House of Turtles—The House of Pigeons—The Guard-house—Absence of H2o—The House of the Governor—Terraces—Wooden Lintels—Details of the House of the Governor—Doorways—Corridors—A Axle of Wood, inscribed with Hieroglyphics—Sculptured Stones, &c. 515

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Exploration finished—Who built these ruined Cities?—Opinion of Dupaix—These Ruins bear no resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome—Nothing like them in Europe—Practise not resemble the known Works of Nippon and China—Neither those of Hindu—No excavated Temples institute—The Pyramids of Arab republic of egypt, in their original country, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids of America—The Temples of Egypt non like those of America—Sculpture non the same equally that of Egypt—Probable Antiquity of these Ruins—Accounts of the Castilian Historians—These Cities probably built past the Races inhabiting the country at the fourth dimension of the Conquest—These Races not however extinct. 527

Journey to Merida—Village of Moona—A Swimming of Water, a Marvel—Aboula—Indian Runners—Merida—Departure—Hunucama—Siege of Campeachy—Embarkation for Havana— Incidents of the Passage—Fourth of July at Sea—Shark-fishing—Getting lost at Sea—Relieved by the Helen Maria—Passage to New York —Arrival—Determination.542

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LIST OF PLATES.

AND DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

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				Folio
Map
General View of Palenque			Frontispice
Portrait of Mr. Stephens
1	Rio Dolce			16
2	Ruined Church at Chiquimula			42
3	Wall of Copan			56
4	Rancho at Copan.			65
v	Plan of Copan	To face page		81
vi	Death's Caput			82
7	Portrait			83
eight	Rock Idol, xviii Anxiety loftier, at Copan	To face up page		83
nine	Stone Statue, Front View	ditto		84
x	Portrait			85
11	Stone Idol	To face folio		85
12	Tablet of Hieroglyphics			86
13	No. 13.— Sides of Altar	To face folio		86
fourteen	No. fourteen.— Sides of Altar	ditto		86
15	Gigantic Head	ditto		87
16	No. xvi.— Stone Idol, Front View	ditto		92
17	No. 17.— Stone Idol	ditto		92
xviii	Idol, half Buried	ditto		92
19	Idol, Front View	ditto		93
twenty	Idol, Back View	ditto		93
21	Idol, Front View	ditto		93
22	Idol, Back View	ditto		93
23	Idol and Altar	ditto		94
24	Fallen Statue	ditto		94
25	Idol, Front View	ditto		95
26	Idol, Back View	ditto		95
27	Idol, Side View	ditto		95
28	Fallen Idol			95
29	Circular Altar				96
30	Stone Idol, Front View	To face page		97
31	Rock Idol, Back View	ditto		97
32	Stone Idol, Side View	ditto		97
33	Esquipulas	ditto		103
33A	Cracking Square of the Antigua Guatimala	ditto		162
34	Crater of the Volcano de Agua			168
35	Esquintla	To face page		178
36	Idol at Quirigua				293

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				PAGE
37	Idol at Quirigua			295
38	Santa Cruz del Quiché			325
39	Identify of Sacrifice			334
forty	Figures institute at Santa Cruz del Quiché			336
41	Plaza at Quezaltenango			350
42	Vases found at Gueguetenango			367
43	Ocosingo			384
44	Riding in a Silla			397
45	Palace at Palenque			416
46	Programme of the Palace at Palenque			419
47	Stucco Effigy on Pier			420
48	Forepart Corridor of Palace			422
49	East Side of Courtyard of Palace			425
50	Colossal Bas-reliefs in Stone			426
51	West Side of Courtyard of Palace			427
52	No. i.— Bas-relief in Stucco			429
53	No. 2.— Bas-relief in Stucco			430
54	No. 3.— Bas-relief in Stucco			431
55	Oval Bas-relief in Stone			433
56	Bas-relief in Stucco			435
57	General Plan of Palenque			446
58	Casa No. 1. in Ruins			448
59	Casa No. 1. Restored			449
60	No. 1. Bas-relief in Stucco			451
61	No. 2. — Bas-relief in Stucco			452
62	No. 3. — Bas-relief in Stucco			453
63	No. 4.— Bas-relief in Stucco			454
64	No. 1.— Tablet of Hieroglyphics			455
65	No. 2.— Tablet of Hieroglyphics			456
66	Tablet of Hieroglyphics on Inner Wall			457
67	Casa de Piedras, No. two			459
68	Tablet on Back Wall of Altar, Casa No. 2	Between 460 de		461
69	Stone Statue	To face page		462
seventy	Casa No. 3			464
71	Forepart Corridor			466
72	Large Stone Tablet (Figures and Hieroglyphics)	Between 464 de		465
73	No. 1.—Bas-relief on Side of Doorway leading to Altar			468
74	No. two.—Bas-relief on Side of Doorway leading to Altar			469
75	Adoratorio of Chantry			471
76	Casa No. 4			472
77	Cenote			508
78	House of the Dwarf			516
79	Programme of the Casa del Gobernador			522
80	Sculptured Front end of the Casa del Gobernador			526
81	Egyptian Hieroglyphics			530
82	Fundamental American and Mexican Hieroglyphical Writing			539

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Map of Journey in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan

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